While the Burberry show, otherwise known as the hottest ticket of London Fashion Week, may have been delayed by animal rights activists campaigning on its doorstep, this did nothing to dampen its impact. For, the British brand showed (once again) how in-touch it is with the times. Though steeped in heritage, Burberry has always been a forerunner in experimenting with new strategy. From staging the first streamed fashion show to partnering with social media giants, to instigating see-now-buy-now, the label has always been one step ahead. This time the brand shunned its traditional red carpet catwalk spectacle to present its spring/summer 2018 collection in more intimate surroundings, namely an Eighteenth Century building in Clerkenwell. But, this wasn’t the only time in the show Burberry paid dues to history to kickstart a trend as the collection reclaimed the brand's iconic tartan. Fifteen years has been deemed long enough for the public to either forget Daniella Westbrook’s outing in head-to-toe check or, for us to treat it as post-ironic. Since the check has found new cultural cachet with avid followers of vintage resellers Wavey Garms, it seems appropriate for Burberry to at least cashing in on their nostalgia. The plaid, in caramel, navy, green and scarlet, became the thread that drew the collection together. Embracing the current trend for eclecticism, Burberry showed military tailoring followed by oversized grungy knits. A plastic poncho in fluoro green was presented after a sweater vest. And, a pretty millennial pink party gown with applique flowers worn with socks and heels was followed by a model in a cornflower blue shearling robe with one statement earring. The result was enchanting if disarming in its creative persuasion. The reintroduction of the brand's check comes months after a menswear collaboration with Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy forced the design out of retirement. But, where that was a one-off fashion moment, this collection solidified the return of the brand’s ubiquitous tartan.
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