While many designers have been refashioning their catwalks into multi-sensory experiences with live bands and countless Instagram moments, Marc Jacobs did the opposite. At the designer’s SS18 show on Wednesday evening, the models walked out to the sound of silence, just the shuffle of feet and fabric could be heard. This resistance to the grandiose events that have laden New York Fashion Week was most present in the label’s new beauty standard. Eyes were the focus of Diane Kendal’s backstage make-up. Inspired by the varied line-up, which included Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Winnie Harlow, Adwoa Aboah and Remington Williams, Kendal created six variations of winged liner. Some were thick and almost a homage to Amy Winehouse, others were thin and elongated like Cleopatras. She used Marc Jacobs Beauty Magic Marc'er Precision Pen to create the look. With the skin clean and luminous and the lips licked with just a little rose lip balm, the beauty look sent a clear message that there is no right or wrong way to flick your liner. Continuing this less is more aesthetic, Jin Soon Choi painted the model's nails to look grown-out. For anyone that’s left their Shellac on a week too long, you’ll recognise this look instantly. Starting their varnish half-way up the nail bed, it showed off the model’s cuticles. Lazy girls rejoice! The collection itself was a walkthrough of the biggest trends of the season. There were bumbags and party-ready sportswear, one-shoulder dresses and bright, lurid colours; it was like a checklist of springs style inclinations. Last season Jacobs’ show was marred by calls of cultural appropriation - in light of mainly white models wearing fake dreadlocks and the designer responding saying he, ‘does not see colour’. Though this season Jacobs seemed to learn his lesson – he cast a diverse set of models and roamed the globe for inspiration, stopping at Indonesia for Batik prints, Italy for Pucci like swirls and Japan for florals. However, there is still a question mark lingering over his use of headdresses. Hopefully, the turban wrapped manes were a homage rather than an insensitive appropriation of the world’s varied cultures.
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