‘Florals for spring, how original.’ Never have nightmare editor Miranda Priestley’s words rung less true. For Spring/Summer 2017 there is a plethora of new trends to get excited about, with usual contenders like the LWD (Little White Dress) and nautical being no-shows for the coming season. Instead, the aesthetic is all about individuality and more-is-more, from exaggerated sleeves to loud-and-proud logo tees, Eighties excess to corseted waists. The only thing that really matters is putting your own spin on whatever trend you choose.
The Waist Is Back
As is often the case, Miuccia Prada was ahead of the game, showing corset belts last season. Now other designers have followed suite, from Isabel Marant’s denim waist cinchers to Balenciaga’s wide leather wrap-belts. At Alberta Ferreti, a boho-style reminiscent of those Moroccan belts beloved by Sienna et al in the Noughties was reimagined as a knotted waist belt, while at Burberry a chic studded band added sex appeal to the layered English country looks. Here at Grazia, we’re big fans of this comeback, which celebrates an hourglass silhouette and one of our favourite erogenous zones.
It’s all about VBL (that’s Visible Bra Layering, a term coined by Fashion Features and News Editor Charlie Gowans-Eglinton) this season, as once again our lingerie has escaped the boudoir and made it into our everyday wardrobes. Whether you want to offer a flash of flesh under a tuxedo jacket, à la Victoria Beckham’s velvet bralet, or layer your lace over a white shirt or tee as seen at Kenzo and Giambatista Valli, there’s an option for everyone who wants to show off their minxy side this season.
Slogans Are The New Logos
Spearheaded by Dior’s new designer Maria Grazia Chiuri and her ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ tees, these days, we’re using our clothes to make a statement. Haider Ackermann told us to ‘Be Your Own Hero’ and ‘Silent Soldier’ while Michael Kors was simply spreading free love with his ‘Love’ intarsia sweater. Blame it on the political climate (that’s what we blame everything on) but there’s definitely a desire to be heard this season.
We don’t have any proof that fashion’s current love of pink begun with Ganni’s sherbet-hued knit, but we’re pretty convinced that it did. Either way, the saccharine shade cropped up again and again on this season’s catwalks, with Parisian heavyweights Givenchy, Chanel and Valentino offering up head-to-toe looks in fuchsia, pale pink and Pepto Bismol respectively. Don’t ‘do’ pink? Neither do we: but this season it’s more chic cropped trousers, jumpsuits and jackets rather than princess dresses.
We’re calling it: statement sleeves are the biggest trend of the season with designers in all four fashion capitals seemingly universally obsessed with adding volume, length and other flourishes to our arms. Once deemed the height of scruffiness, too-long sleeves are now de rigueur thanks to DKNY and Loewe, while Dolce & Gabbana championed prettily ruffled and frilled sleeves at the other end of the spectrum. Sixties-staple bell sleeves made a comeback at Gucci, Fendi and Etro, while flared trumpet sleeves circa 1977 were seen at Elie Saab and Giamba. Basically, if the sleeve isn’t run-of-the-mill, it’s in this season.
They Call Me Mellow Yellow
From mustard to canary, chartreuse to champagne, there were more shades of yellow this season than a Farrow & Ball paint chart. Alexander Wang opted for a soupcon of highlighter neon, seen in peekaboo bras and sporty seams, with Prada taking a similar approach with sherbet-hued feather trims. There was no such minimalism at Chloe or Chanel, where head-to-toe looks in saffron and canary respectively made the case for yellow as a flattering wardrobe staple throughout the warmer months.
Maybe it’s the fact that the average age of most designers is 35, or that theory that whatever was in fashion 20 years ago is cool again, or maybe it’s Stranger Things reminding us that the Eighites were cool after all, but there’s definitely a fondness for the decade that style seemingly forgot right now. The designers doing it in the biggest way were Rodarte (think exaggerated shoulders), Isabel Marant (frou-frou skater skirts) and Saint Laurent (leather mini-dresses).
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